It was only a few more km to the border crossing, the smallest station I have experienced, with only 1 guard visible. Instead of the easy crossing I expected, it took some time for me to answer the numerous questions asked by the surly guard ( is that a job requirement?) Among other things, he wanted to know what guarantee I could give him that I would be returning to Canada in spring! I just told him I was planning to visit my sister in Victoria, BC and he accepted that, allowing me to pass through. Perhaps he just had a bad day or something.
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| Near Canada/ US border |
One of the entrances to the park was in St Mary but everything was closed so I continued on, feeling somewhat uncomfortable when out of cell phone service again and the area very remote. The road was well maintained but a challenge with its sharp curves and steep areas but the scenery was worth it and I just drove slowly. There was an occasional car or truck, and all I could hear was the soft purr of my engine.
Mountains, valleys, huge cattle ranches, and the occasional house were all I could see for miles.
Along the road there were also signs to watch out for cattle and I often saw some grazing in the fields.
The weather was perfect, sunny and warm.
It was late afternoon when I came to "The Glacier Haven RV park" which I had found on the internet earlier. The manager lived beside the park and was a very pleasant young woman who told me the park was officially closed for the season but I could stay. She helped me fill my fresh water tank from a tap near the house and came to the campground to get me set up on electricity. I was the only camper there which felt rather strange but she lived nearby and we had a pleasant visit. An added bonus was that they honored Passport America so the rates were great.
She told me about the continental divide which runs by there. I had heard of the Continental Divide but didn't know much about it.
It follows a line of high peaks along the ranges of the Rocky mountains and Andes; from the Bering Strait all along the western part of North and South America to the Strait of Magellan. It divides the continent and I had the opportunity to experience some of it by driving through Glacier National Park the next day. (This park is a continuation of Watertown Lakes National Park in Alberta.)
It was a short drive to the west entrance of the park and luckily it was still open. This was the "Road to the sun" that closes in the winter.
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| Along "The road to the sun" |
I was happy to see many other hikers and relieved that grizzlies usually stay away when there are many people talking.
I found the hike challenging and had forgotten about the effects of altitude. Even at 6000ft,
the thinner air and colder temperatures are noticeable. I was happy I had brought a jacket but could have used some gloves and a scarf.
The trail ended at a basin with a lake that had dried up significantly due to a recent drought. It was a beautiful spot for lunch and a rest. I met a very nice woman for the hike back. Pat was a social worker living in the area and became a great short-term friend.
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| Avalanche trail end |
I then aimed my RV south to Yellowstone Park, stopping to park and sleep at Walmarts in Missoula and Butte, enjoying the continuing beautiful autumn colours
From there, east then south on no 287 to "Quake Lake" which someone I met in Butte had told me about.
This Lake was the result of a 7.5 magnitude earthquake that occurred there in 1959. It was the largest earthquake in the Rocky mountains, followed by a huge landslide which covered the full campsite below, killing 28 people. The falling rocks also dammed the Madison river going by there, creating the lake present today. Seeing that area was a sad experience.
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| Quake Lake, Montana |
The tops of some of the trees can still be seen mostly covered by the lake.
The road led to West Yellowstone, a touristy town where I visited the visitors' centre and then spent the night at nearby RV park. That small town even had an IMAX theatre but I had already seen the film showing.
The road going through the park was very good and well marked. I began to see steam from hotsprings and geysers in the area.
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| Old Faithful |
It was fun to finally see "Old Faithful" erupting.
At the visitors centre, they show the times for the next eruption, usually accurate within about +/-10 min.It is one of the few geysers they are able to predict.
I found out that Yellowstone is a supervolcano, one of the largest volcanoes in the world. There was a massive eruption more than 2 million years ago and smaller eruptions since, with the last lava flow about 70,000 yrs ago. With the magma being close to the surface there, the volcano is still active and may blow again but not likely for another thousand years or more. Scientists are continually monitoring for any signs of increasing activity.
Due to the number of faults present, there are an average of 1600 earthquakes that occur each year in Yellowstone park. Most of these cannot be felt and when I asked one of the staff about it, she said she had only once felt a minor tremor.
Leaving there were several signs warning of Buffalo on the road and, sure enough, I was delighted to have to stop for a herd walking by.
Later on I passed another herd but did not see any other animals on my way.
Most of the drive was in drizzly weather with tall evergreens on both sides interspersed with wow moments of magestic mountains surrounded by mist.
The road went along the continental divide reaching altitudes to over 8000ft in places. I knew I was getting higher up when the drizzle turned to snow flurries then drizzle again when the road reached lower altitudes. The temp also got colder as I went up. I watched the road carefully in case some of that drizzle had turned to ice.
I stopped at Lewis Lake campground which had no facilities except a pit toilet. It was quite pleasant though and there were a few others camped there.
Yellowstone Park continues into Wyoming and coming out of the park, the road carried on into "The Grand Teton" national park which is in Wyoming.
The road was very different now, through a flat valley with a wonderful view of the mountain range.
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| The Grand Tetons |
Continuing out of southern gate of the park, I arrived in Jackson, Wyoming.
At the visitors centre I discussed bear spray with one of the staff. I discovered the spray I had was for self defense generally and not strong enough for bears. After he showed me the proper spray which contains capsaicin (made from chili peppers) and can shoot a spray about 30ft, he showed me how to use it and I bought some. He told me that a hiker had been killed by a grizzly in that area recently. Evidently he got caught between the bear and her cub and was not prepared. Sad.
From there I drove west across 2 mountain passes into Idaho and to Idaho Falls where I parked at a Walmart for the night.
The next day I continued south on hway 15. It led through a vast valley between mountain ranges and I could see Lava rocks on both sides. Stopping at a rest stop, I explored a hiking trail leading through the lava, the area known as "Hell's Half Acre" . From the information available, I learned that a long time ago a series of non-explosive lava flowed from a crack near there covering 222 sq miles and forming Idaho's high desert.
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| Field of lava |
A short drive from there brought me to "Lava Hot Springs", a popular place that I had been to before. The day was warm and sunny as I stopped to soak in the hot water. There were several pools of varying temperatures and it was a delight to feel the release the stiff muscles after all that driving.
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| parked at Lava Hot Springs |
Soon I would cross the border into Utah and more wonderful experiences.
"Memories are the music to which our hearts sing"
-- unknown
"We are often most in the dark when we are the most certain, and the most enlightened when we are the most confused."
--from "The Road Less Traveled" by Scott Peck
Have a great day
Maria
whyknotrvmaria@gmail.com
Comments at the end of this blog still don't work but I welcome all comments sent to me by e-mail
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