The Continental Divide

It was mid-Oct and I was almost ready to cross the border to Montana, US but just before that, I stopped at Cardston to fill up with propane. I noticed a huge temple and discovered it was The Alberta Temple of the Mormons, built at their first settlement in Canada.
It was only a few more km to the border crossing, the smallest station I have experienced, with only 1 guard visible. Instead of the easy crossing I expected, it took some time for me to answer the numerous questions asked by the surly guard ( is that a job requirement?) Among other things, he wanted to know what guarantee I could give him that I would be returning to Canada in spring! I just told him I was planning to visit my sister in Victoria, BC and he accepted that, allowing me to pass through. Perhaps he just had a bad day or something.

Near Canada/ US border

I drove south on hway 89 which runs along the east side and around the bottom of Glacier National Park.
One of the entrances to the park was in St Mary but everything was closed so I continued on, feeling somewhat uncomfortable when out of cell phone service again and the area very remote. The road was well maintained but a challenge with its sharp curves and steep areas but the scenery was worth it and I just drove slowly. There was an occasional car or truck, and all I could hear was the soft purr of my engine.
Mountains, valleys, huge cattle ranches, and the occasional house were all I could see for miles.
Along the road there were also signs to watch out for cattle and I often saw some grazing in the fields.
The weather was perfect, sunny and warm. 

It was late afternoon when I came to "The Glacier Haven RV park" which I had found on the internet earlier. The manager lived beside the park and was a very pleasant young woman who told me the park was officially closed for the season but I could stay. She helped me fill my fresh water tank from a tap near the house and came to the campground to get me set up on electricity. I was the only camper there which felt rather strange but she lived nearby and we had a pleasant visit. An added bonus was that they honored Passport America so the rates were great.
She told me about the continental divide which runs by there. I had heard of the Continental Divide but didn't know much about it.
It follows a line of high peaks along the ranges of the Rocky mountains and Andes; from the Bering Strait all along the western part of North and South America to the Strait of Magellan. It divides the continent and I had the opportunity to experience some of it by driving through Glacier National Park the next day. (This park is a continuation of Watertown Lakes National Park in Alberta.)
It was a short drive to the west entrance of the park and luckily it was still open. This was the "Road to the sun" that closes in the winter.

It was a lovely drive to the "Avalanche Trail" which I wanted to hike. 

Along "The road to the sun"

I was happy to see many other hikers and relieved that grizzlies usually stay away when there are many people talking.
 I found the hike challenging and had forgotten about the effects of altitude. Even at 6000ft,
the thinner air and colder temperatures are noticeable. I was happy I had brought a jacket but could have used some gloves and a scarf. 
The trail ended at a basin with a lake that had dried up significantly due to a recent drought. It was a beautiful spot for lunch and a rest. I met a very nice woman for the hike back. Pat was a social worker living in the area and became a great short-term friend.

Avalanche trail end

I then aimed my RV south to Yellowstone Park, stopping to park and sleep at Walmarts in Missoula and Butte, enjoying the continuing beautiful autumn colours

From there, east then south on no 287 to "Quake Lake" which someone I met in Butte had told me about.
This Lake was the result of a 7.5 magnitude earthquake that occurred there in 1959. It was the largest earthquake in the Rocky mountains, followed by a huge landslide which covered the full campsite below, killing 28 people. The falling rocks also dammed the Madison river going by there, creating the lake present today. Seeing that area was a sad experience.

Quake Lake, Montana

The tops of some of the trees can still be seen mostly covered by the lake.


The road led to West Yellowstone, a touristy town where I visited the visitors' centre and then spent the night at nearby RV park. That small town even had an IMAX theatre but I had already seen the film showing.
The road going through the park was very good and well marked. I began to see steam from hotsprings and geysers in the area. 

Old Faithful

It was fun to finally see   "Old Faithful" erupting.
At the visitors centre, they show the times for the next eruption, usually accurate within about +/-10 min.It is one of the few geysers they are able to predict.
I found out that Yellowstone is a supervolcano, one of the largest volcanoes in the world. There was a massive eruption more than 2 million years ago and smaller eruptions since, with the last lava flow about 70,000 yrs ago. With the magma being close to the surface there, the volcano is still active and may blow again but not likely for another thousand years or more. Scientists are continually monitoring for any signs of increasing activity.
Due to the number of faults present, there are an average of 1600 earthquakes that occur each year in Yellowstone park. Most of these cannot be felt and when I asked one of the staff about it, she said she had only once felt a minor tremor.
Leaving there were several signs warning of Buffalo on the road and, sure enough, I was delighted to have to stop for a herd walking by.

Later on I passed another herd but did not see any other animals on my way.
Most of the drive was in drizzly weather with tall evergreens on both sides interspersed with wow moments of magestic mountains surrounded by mist.
The road went along the continental divide reaching altitudes to over 8000ft in places. I knew I was getting higher up when the drizzle turned to snow flurries then drizzle again when the road reached lower altitudes. The temp also got colder as I went up. I watched the road carefully in case some of that drizzle had turned to ice.
I stopped at Lewis Lake campground which had no facilities except a pit toilet. It was quite pleasant though and there were a few others camped there.
Yellowstone Park continues into Wyoming and coming out of the park, the road carried on into "The Grand Teton" national park which is in Wyoming.
The road was very different now, through a flat valley with a wonderful view of the mountain range.

The Grand Tetons

The weather was now sunny and warmer, the straight road easy to navigate. In the distance I saw a herd of elk.
Continuing out of southern gate of the park, I arrived in Jackson, Wyoming.
At the visitors centre I discussed bear spray with one of the staff. I discovered the spray I had was for self defense generally and not strong enough for bears. After he showed me the proper spray which contains capsaicin (made from chili peppers) and can shoot a spray about 30ft, he showed me how to use it and I bought some. He told me that a hiker had been killed by a grizzly in that area recently. Evidently he got caught between the bear and her cub and was not prepared. Sad.
From there I drove west across 2 mountain passes  into Idaho and to Idaho Falls where I parked at a Walmart for the night. 
The next day I continued south on hway 15. It led through a vast valley between mountain ranges and I could see Lava rocks on both sides. Stopping at a rest stop, I explored a hiking trail leading through the lava, the area known as "Hell's Half Acre" . From the information available, I learned that a long time ago a series of non-explosive lava flowed from a crack near there covering 222 sq miles and forming Idaho's high desert. 

Field of lava

A short drive from there brought me to "Lava Hot Springs", a popular place that I had been to before. The day was warm and sunny as I stopped to soak in the hot water. There were several pools of varying temperatures and it was a delight to feel the release the stiff muscles after all that driving.

parked at Lava Hot Springs

Soon I would cross the border into Utah and more wonderful experiences.

"Memories are the music to which our hearts sing"
                                                -- unknown

"We are often most in the dark when we are the most certain, and the most enlightened when we are the most confused."
    --from "The Road Less Traveled" by Scott Peck

Have a great day

Maria

whyknotrvmaria@gmail.com

Comments at the end of this blog still don't work but I welcome all comments sent to me by e-mail

Left turn ahead, a change in directions

Vast grain fields and "The big sky" of the prairies

Warm autumn days accompanied me as I continued to drive west across the seemingly neverending prairies.What a huge variety of landscapes Canada offers! We have it all: mountains and flatlands, lakes and desert-like areas, the Arctic tundra and the lush southern forests. Most of all we have a lot of space!

I arrived in Calgary on Oct 6, parking at the Canadream headquarters where I had bought my Motorhome a year ago and wanted to get it serviced.
It felt wonderful to be warmly welcomed by the manager, Matthew who still remembered me.
I couldn't get any work done on it until the next day so I spent that day hiking the nearby Crosspoint mall, which was a feast for the senses. I asked at security about parking overnight and he directed me to a large parking lot that showed up on his monitor. Since I didn't have far to walk, I decided to go see a movie, something I hadn't done in a long time. "The Martian" was a well done and interesting story. Seeing a movie on a big screen has always felt like a real treat and 3D was an added bonus.The theatre was a new kind I hadn't experienced before. You reserve a specific seat, the screen is larger, and for an extra cost (which I declined), you can get a seat that has some movement according to what's happening in the movie.
 lt felt strange sleeping in my RV, the only vehicle parked in that huge lot but I knew a security guard was checking the area.

The next day, I returned to the Canadream centre to have my motorhome serviced. It felt good to have it all checked , including the propane system and to be given a very good deal because I was "a part of our Canadream family".

In Calgary the major change in the direction of my journey was from the trans Canada hway going west to #2 going south, a large left turn on the map. Coming across a rise in the road, I got my first good glimpse of the mountains. The beauty of seeing the snow covered peaks arrising above the golden canopy of trees brought tears to my eyes. I have always loved mountains, having lived in Switzerland as a child.

It was wonderful to drive my RV after being fully serviced! 
Now for my journey south.

After about 2hrs, I arrived in Fort MacLeod, Alberta to visit a friend.
We spent some lovely times catching up. The days were filled with activities such as swimming at a large indoor pool in Lethbridge , time at the library where I finally printed off my blog ( not trusting my tablet to keep it from being erased), a concert, hiking in the mountains, and some good meals, including a turkey dinner.
 My journey seems to be filled with days of solitude interwoven with social activities. I am slowly learning the best balance for me. 

On Oct 12 , I left to continue south. It was Thanksgiving and I thought of how much I am grateful for in my life.

The prairies meet the foothills of the rockies

My plan was to visit Watertown Lakes national park that I had been to before. On the way there I went a short distance out of my way to see "Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump", a museum and world heritage site. 

 The history is fascinating. The method of hunting practices by the Plains people was used over almost 6000 years. They were able to hunt bison by stampeding them over a cliff. They then checked any that were still alive and killed them. The carcasses were carved up and taken to camp. Almost every part of the animal was used for dried meat, hides, fat, tools, and clothing.

At first, I was horrified at the thought of so many animals falling to their death but then I realized it is a very efficient and humane way to kill animals and that the native people's survival depended on it. We forget that in our society animals are often killed in less humane ways because all we can see are the packaged meats in the stores.We also have a choice because we have so many other options for food.

I then drove south east to Watertown Lakes 2 days ago, having to work hard to stay on the road with the strong winds rocking the RV. I saw many RV's coming the other way, thinking it was because of them returning home after the long week-end. When I got to Waterton Lakes, I was told that all the campgrounds were being closed for the season! The staff told me of some possible private campgrounds to check out and I finally found "The Crooked Creek" campground, not far from there ,which was still open but closing soon. Luckily the managers are here a few more days and allowing some campers to stay. The water was turned off but there is still electric and a dumping site available. Because it is off season, the cost is only $10/night and that includes WiFi!!


Yesterday, I went on a hike towards the mountains. They seem so close yet are much farther than I could hike in a few hours. I was nervous about the possibility of bears but the grizzlies evidently don't roam this far. Black bears are less dangerous but I still carried bear spray and made noise while walking.
I didn't see any wildlife.
Here are some views from the campground and along the trail:

 

My next stop will be at the US border crossing in Cardston tomorrow, a short drive from here. I wonder what the experiences of this winter will be compared to last year? 

So far I've been very lucky with mostly warm sunny days and beautiful auumn colours. Will I be able to stay ahead of the snow?


"The person who makes a success of living is the one who sees his goal steadily and aims for it unswervingly -- that is dedication."
                                                                                        Cecil B DeMille, Film producer  


An RV couple born the same year and month were celebrating their 60th birthdays. During the celebration, a fairy appeared and said that because they were so loving, she could grant them each a wish.
Very excited, the wife said that since she had visited most of North America in their RV, she would like to visit Europe.
The fairy waved her magic wand and airline tickets instantly appeared in her hand.
Then it was the husband's turn. He paused for a moment, then said with a sly look, " well I'ld like to have a woman 30 years younger than me."
The fairy waved her wand and, presto, he was 90!
       

Have a great week

Maria

I would love to hear from you at:

whyknotrvmaria@gmail.com

Timing is everything

Autumn appeared quickly with the beginning of soft colours and cooler nights as I left Cape Breton, wondering how long it will be before I return again and what new adventures await me.
Leaving about 2 weeks later than expected, "whyknot" began the long journey west. Planning and timing take up a good chunk of my time during my travels, constantly revising my schedule. It is more of a challenge to travel this way than to have a specific itinerary but the rewards are worth it.

So, shall I race across the country to stay ahead of possible snow in northern Ontario or take my time and hope to catch some beautiful autumn colours?
It is impossible to predict and I decided to plan one day at a time.

Stopping in New Glasgow, I was finally able to get my RV serviced and the insurance and registration taken care of. It's difficult to deal with these issues while travelling.
From there back to Pictou to catch up with some friends, often missing the frequent contact with them.

Pictou, NS    (photo taken a few years ago)

The thought of moving back to that familiar area appeals to me, yet I don't want to give up RV travel. The need to explore new places is a powerful one that I have felt all my life.  

Another few stops to visit family and friends, then a long journey through northwest Ontario.
The autumn colours are slow to develop this year due to the warm weather but the further north I drove, the better the colours became (along with colder nights). I've always loved northern Ontario with its forests, lakes, and the great Canadian Shield.

After checking the internet, I learned that the Canadian Shield extends much further than I  thought, covering eastern and central Canada, from the Great Lakes to the Arctic, an area over 1/2 of our country!  It is "a large area of exposed Precambrian igneous and...metamorphic rocks that forms the ancient geological core of the north American  continent " ( Wikipedia).

As I drove on, I began to feel ill and stopped at "Six Mile Provincial Park" (south of Parry Sound, Ont and close to Georgian Bay) to rest a few days. Becoming sick while travelling is uncomfortable as well as sometimes frightening. Feeling vulnerable, I was wishing my mother was with me. She always knew what to do! 

Luckily , I was in a beautiful park with helpful staff available should I need them. 

camping at Six Mile Park

After 3 days of sleeping, reading, and watching movies, I felt strong enough to go on a short hike. I loved climbing over rocks and along the water. Those rocks are ancient; strong and secure.

Before leaving the area, I drove a short distance to see "The Big Chute". It is a marine railway, the only one of its kind still in use in North America. Operating at lock 44 of the Trent-Severn waterway, it carries boats over a 60ft height difference. I just missed 2 boats carried over but was fascinated by the system:

What an ingenious process!

The carriage

My journey continued past Sudbury and to Sault Ste. Marie where I was happy to reunite with my good friend Jan. My timing was perfect since her husband was away and she was ready for some company. 

We walked to St Mary's River to watch the freighters travel from Lake Huron to Lake Superior. Across the river we could see Sault St Marie, Michigan. A beautiful bridge crosses the border.

We were hoping to see the lunar eclipse but the clouds were too thick so that was disappointing.

I was in the wrong place for that. Timing is everything! 

I did time the fall colours well though. The journey over the top of Lake Superior was scenic and the colours superb in places. 

I stopped near Marathon, Ont where I found a campground that was not only open but also honoured Passport America. It was a pleasure to have a shower, get my laundry done, and dump my tanks. 

Canada Geese at Neys campground

Love those rocks!

I've been noticing inukshuks on some of rocky areas along the northern route.They were often used in the remote areas of the north to guide travellers.

The next day I continued west, stopping for propane before proceeding to Thunder Bay where I parked in the driveway of some friends there. It was a delight to spend some time with them and to be wined and dined.I usually cook very simply in my RV because of the tiny kitchen. (I also admit I don't enjoy spending much time cooking).

Waking up to a blanket of heavy frost on the ground, I was grateful for the many warm days I had for the past week and with a forecast for more of the same.

Frosty grasses and early morning mist

The next day , Fri Oct 2 , was a very long day of driving.( I remember TGIF while working and now having a hard time keeping track of the days!)

Taking the trans Canada highway west to Fort Frances then #71 north to Kenora , was scenic but also a long, lonely drive with very little traffic and few villages. The fall colours weaved in and out of the landscape. I decided to keep going west to Winnipeg, arriving late and very tired at a Walmart there. 

The nice thing about Walmarts is that you can arrive late and just park and sleep.

The next morning it was raining and I noticed my fridge wasn't working. It runs on propane and I checked to make sure it was on. There were no other RV'ers to ask for help. Perhaps I could just buy some ice for now until I get to an RV service place? I decided to see if I could fix it so , on with my rain poncho, I grabbed some tools and went out to the side of my RV where the fridge access was. It was cold and wet and my fingers felt frozen but I managed to remove some covers and tried to light the pilot light which looked like it was out. I remember watching someone light it for me while in NS and it worked!!! That sure felt good.

Gas prices have been creeping up as I travelled north, to $1.39/l then lowered again driving towards Winnipeg where it was $1.09/l. I noticed I get much better mileage when I drive at about 90km/hr although some other drivers hate that, particularly when the road has many curves and no place to pass. I try to pull over when I can. 

The countryside changed rapidly, from windy road, forests, lakes, and rocks to flatter land ,less trees, and vast fields of golden grain. The highway became straight and wide with more traffic. The weather became colder with a gentle rain, making all the subtle colours more vivid and I felt like I was driving through a beautiful tapestry at times. Are there 50 shades of orange?

Soggy hay bales

From Winnipeg, it took me 5 hrs driving through softly falling rain to Regina, Sask. Keeping track of time changes was a challenge!

So, here I am in Regina, preparing for my next drive to Medicine Hat, Manitoba ,about 5hrs. Driving so far every day is hard but my timing has been great so far and soon I'll be in the mountains where I want to spend most of my time.

The rain has stopped and 

All is Well!!!

"Happiness often sneaks in through a door you didn't know you left open."

                  John Barrymore, actor

"In the hopes of reaching the moon, men fail to see the flowers that blossom at their feet."

                     Albert Schweitzer, German theologist

Have a great day!

Maria

whyknotrvmaria@gmail. com